by Juliana Birnbaum Fox
Bella Venezia especializes in authenic Italian food in the Mission District.
This is Southern Italian cuisine as it was meant to be: unpretentious, comforting, and full of flavor. Owner Eduardo Reina worked for 23 years at North Beach’s famous Caffe Sport before striking out on his own in 2006 in the Mission, bringing authentic, family-style dining back to a neighborhood once dominated by Italian immigrants. In fact, it is his friendly demeanor, kindness, and genuine love for his work that bring many clients back again and again, along with the excellent value—this is probably one of the most inexpensive, high-quality Italian places around.
The space is lined by comfortable banquettes, walls are covered in photos and artwork of the Old Country, and there is a warm red, green and white décor. It’s not fancy or hip, but simple and homestyle. We were greeted with a sincere welcome, and throughout our meal the service was attentive and personal as you are truly made to feel as an appreciated guest. Italian opera favorites provide the soundtrack to your meal, when the live organ player isn’t in attendance.
Meals begin with complementary warm bread and a delicious, spicy red pepper dipping sauce with a subtle hint of garlic and anchovy. The menu includes well-loved standards: pastas such as ravioli, linguini and penne, with Bolognese meat sauce, pesto, tomato cream and Carbonara preparations, and meat, fish and poultry in Piccata and Marsala styles among others. Portions are large enough to fill your belly and have enough to take home, and both vegetarians and omnivores will have plenty to choose from.
Eduardo Reina
A number of beautiful salads are offered, including a warm spinach salad with melting gorgonzola and walnuts, and the classic Caprese with its layers of tomato, fresh mozzarella and basil. We had the Bruschetta, with ripe tomatoes and quality extra virgin olive oil, which came piled high on perfectly grilled bread over a bed of balsamic greens. We also couldn’t pass up the highly-recommended calamari, which did not disappoint—tender with a light, crunchy breading and an aioli for dipping.
Don’t expect an extensive wine list, but the house Chianti we were offered was just perfect with the meal—light, dry and drinkable. House wines are inexpensive and offered by the carafe, and there are several other mid-priced wines to choose from.
Both pastas we chose were delicious, the cream sauce rich and garlicky, the tomato sauce delicately seasoned. We also loved the grilled sole, perfectly cooked and lightly breaded with a lemon and butter sauce, served with potatoes, baby carrots, broccoli and zucchini, tender but not overdone.
Our meal came to a sweet close with the incredible house-made tiramisu, fluffy and not overly sweet with its subtle flavors of espresso and liqueur. And the cappuccino is a treat, served in a huge traditional cup and topped with cocoa. This is a highly recommended dining experience that won’t break your budget.
Don’t miss it! (Located at 3215 Mission Street, SF 94110, 415-642-4896.)
