Archaeologists believe this site near Chetumal was once the capital for a powerful Calakmul dynasty
by Thilini Wijesinhe
If you are keen to see archaeological sites off the beaten path, then Dzibanché — called Dzibanché-Kinichná — is for you.
Dzibanché and Kinichná are two nearby sites that were part of a settlement of four groups.
While their location — around 81 kilometers from Chetumal (off Highway 186) — is not the most convenient to visit, you will not regret seeing the beautiful structures here. The pyramid in Kinichná is a key highlight.
You can combine a visit to Dzibanché with a trip to several archaeological sites, including Kohunlich and Oxtankah. We visited the sites from Bacalar.
According to the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH), Dzibanché was discovered and named by Thomas Gann, a British military doctor and archaeology enthusiast who visited the site in 1927.
Dzibanché is Mayan for “writing on wood,” referring to the wooden lintel with glyphs that was in one of the site’s temples. According to INAH, the settlement dates to around 300 B.C. and lasted until A.D. 1400–1550.
Only two of the settlement’s four groups — Dzibanché (also called the Main Group) and Kinichná — are open to visitors. Ancient Maya white roads (raised roads) connect these groups.
Notably, INAH says that Dzibanché is believed to have once been a capital of the powerful Kaan (Kaanu’l) dynasty, also called the Snake dynasty, who ruled in Calakmul.
Expect to spend a few hours exploring both sites. You can climb many structures, but there are steep steps, so take good care.
Once you enter the Dzibanché group, you will come across the Temple of the Lintels, a pyramid base with a temple on top. The wooden lintel that inspired the site’s name was found here.
The pyramid’s platform has characteristics resembling an architectural style from Teotihuacán in central Mexico.
Next, you can walk to Plaza Gann, named after the man who discovered the site.
West of the plaza is an interesting structure called the Temple of the Captives, which has a pyramid platform and a temple on top. You can observe the remains of a stucco mask on this structure.
Don’t forget to look out for the glyphs on this building’s stairway. INAH says the stairway records the war victories of a Kaan ruler, and that the glyphs include images of prisoners and related text.
North of the Gann Plaza is the Temple of the Toucans. It has a platform with a central stairway thought to have been used as seats to watch ceremonies in the plaza. You can see remains of stone blocks on this building that once had stucco masks.
A notable building in this area is the Temple of the Cormorants, the tallest on the site. It has a pyramidal base with a temple on top.
Multiple chambers were found within the platform, and one contained remains of what was called the “Lord of Dzibanché” with a rich offering, according to INAH. Make time to see the remains of reliefs on this building.
